How to Iron Clothes

Ironing is one of those skills that looks way harder than it actually is. The first time you try, you'll probably iron new wrinkles into the shirt while removing old ones. By the third time, you'll have it. By the tenth, you'll do it on autopilot while watching something on your phone.

This guide covers every fabric, the right technique for each garment, and — for those who hate ironing — all the ways to get wrinkle-free clothes without one.

What You Need

• A steam iron — a basic one for $20-30 works perfectly. Don't overspend; the technology hasn't changed much.
• An ironing board — the standard fold-out kind. If you don't have one, a flat, hard surface covered with a clean towel works. (Not a bed — too soft, the wrinkles won't press out.)
• Water — for the steam function. Use distilled water if your tap water is hard (high mineral content) to prevent mineral buildup inside the iron.
• A spray bottle — optional but useful for stubborn wrinkles. Fill with clean water.
• A pressing cloth — a thin cotton cloth (or a clean pillowcase) placed between the iron and delicate fabrics to prevent shine marks and scorching.

Temperature Guide by Fabric

This is the single most important thing to get right. Too hot and you'll melt, scorch, or create shiny marks. Too cool and the wrinkles won't budge.

Low heat (1 dot on the iron / "Synthetic" setting):

• Silk
• Polyester
• Nylon
• Acetate
• Rayon
• Anything with sequins, beads, or printed graphics

Medium heat (2 dots / "Wool" setting):

• Wool
• Cotton blends (polycotton)
• Cashmere
• Dark-colored fabrics (to prevent shine)

High heat (3 dots / "Cotton/Linen" setting):

• 100% cotton
• Linen
• Denim

How to Iron a Dress Shirt (Step by Step)

The dress shirt is the hardest garment to iron well, because it has a collar, cuffs, sleeves, and a full body. Master this and everything else is easy.

1. The Collar

• Lay it flat on the board, backside up.
• Iron from the points (tips) toward the center. This pushes wrinkles out instead of creating creases at the points.
• Flip and repeat on the front side.
• Fold the collar up into its natural position.

2. The Cuffs

• Unbutton the cuffs and lay them flat, inside up.
• Iron the inside first, then the outside.
• For French cuffs, unfold them completely and iron flat.

3. The Sleeves

• Lay one sleeve flat along the board, aligning the seam.
• Iron from the shoulder seam down to the cuff in smooth, long strokes.
• For a crisp crease: iron along the top fold line of the sleeve. For a softer look: iron slightly off the fold so there's no hard crease.
• Flip and repeat. Then do the other sleeve.

4. The Back

• Drape the shirt over the board with the back facing up.
• Start at the yoke (the double-layered piece across the upper back/shoulders) and work downward.
• Use long, smooth strokes from top to bottom.

5. The Front Panels

• Lay one front panel on the board.
• Iron around the buttons, never directly over them. Pressing the iron onto buttons can crack them or leave button imprints on the fabric.
• If your iron has a pointed tip, use it to get between buttons.
• Iron the placket (the strip where the buttons are) with the tip.
• Repeat for the other front panel.

How to Iron Pants

Dress Pants / Trousers

1. Check the pockets — empty everything.
2. Start with the waistband. Slide the waistband over the narrow end of the ironing board and iron around it.
3. Lay the pants flat, aligning the front and back seams of each leg.
4. Iron from the waist down each leg, following the natural crease line. The crease should run from the bottom of the leg up to where the front pleat starts.
5. Flip and repeat.
6. For a sharper crease: use steam and press firmly along the crease line.

Jeans

• Jeans rarely need ironing. If they do, turn them inside out and use high heat.
• Iron flat without creating a crease (you don't want a dress-pant crease in your jeans).
• Better option: toss them in the dryer with a damp towel for 10 minutes.

Ironing Other Garments

T-shirts:

• Turn inside out (especially if there's a graphic print).
• Medium-low heat. Iron flat in a few quick passes. Don't overthink it.
• Never iron directly on a graphic print — the heat will crack and peel it.

Skirts:

• Iron the waistband first (same technique as pants).
• For pleated skirts, pin each pleat in place and press one at a time with steam.
• For straight skirts, iron flat, working around any zippers.

Linen:

• Linen wrinkles easily and is meant to look slightly rumpled — don't stress about perfection.
• Use high heat with heavy steam. Iron while the fabric is still slightly damp for best results.
• Linen re-wrinkles almost immediately. Embrace it. That's the look.

Alternatives to Ironing

Here's a secret: you don't actually need to iron most things. These alternatives handle 80% of wrinkle situations.

Steamer

A handheld garment steamer ($25-40) is the lazy person's best friend.

• Hang the garment on a hanger.
• Hold the steamer 1-2 inches from the fabric and move downward.
• Steam relaxes the fibers and gravity pulls wrinkles out.
• Great for: knits, delicates, suits (that you shouldn't press flat), curtains, and anything you're in a hurry about.
• Not great for: getting a crisp, pressed look on dress shirts or achieving sharp creases in pants.

The Bathroom Steam Trick

• Hang wrinkled clothes in the bathroom.
• Run a hot shower for 10-15 minutes with the door closed.
• The steam relaxes the wrinkles. Smooth the fabric with your hands while it's damp.
• Works best for: slightly wrinkled clothes that just need freshening up.

The Dryer Trick

• Toss wrinkled clothes in the dryer with a damp (not wet) towel or a few ice cubes.
• Run on medium heat for 10-15 minutes.
• The steam from the damp towel or melting ice releases wrinkles.
• Remove immediately and hang.

Wrinkle-Release Spray

• Spray the garment evenly, then tug and smooth the fabric with your hands.
• Hang and let dry.
• Works for light wrinkles. Won't replace ironing for a crisp dress shirt, but great for casual clothes.

When to Skip Ironing and Go to a Dry Cleaner

Some garments should not be ironed at home:

• Suits — A good suit should be professionally pressed. Home ironing can crush the structure and create unwanted creases. Steaming at home is fine between dry cleanings.
• Formal dresses or gowns — Complex fabrics and construction. Let a professional handle it.
• Anything labeled "dry clean only" — These fabrics can be damaged by water and heat.
• Heavily wrinkled silk — Silk is tricky. A professional steamer is safer than a home iron.

Iron Care and Maintenance

Your iron will last years if you take basic care of it:

• Empty the water reservoir after every use. Standing water creates mineral buildup that can spit brown water onto your clothes.
• Use distilled water if your tap water is hard. This prevents mineral deposits.
• Clean the soleplate (the bottom) periodically. If it gets sticky or stained, wipe with a paste of baking soda and water when the iron is cool. For tougher buildup, run the iron over a sheet of aluminum foil sprinkled with salt.
• Store upright to avoid scratching the soleplate.
• Use the self-clean function if your iron has one — usually involves filling with water, heating to max, and holding a button that flushes steam through the system.

Check Yourself